David Dickstein – Morning Journal https://www.morningjournal.com Ohio News, Sports, Weather and Things to Do Thu, 11 Jan 2024 20:56:42 +0000 en-US hourly 30 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.2 https://www.morningjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/MorningJournal-siteicon.png?w=16 David Dickstein – Morning Journal https://www.morningjournal.com 32 32 192791549 Travel: How you can sail around the Caribbean on a superyacht https://www.morningjournal.com/2024/01/11/travel-how-you-can-sail-around-the-caribbean-on-a-superyacht/ Thu, 11 Jan 2024 20:49:48 +0000 https://www.morningjournal.com/?p=812708&preview=true&preview_id=812708 Impeccable service, gourmet cuisine and tasteful décor are expected when shelling out big bucks for a luxury cruise. Getting anything less, while admittedly a first-world problem, is nonetheless disappointing. Getting considerably more than expected is what makes for that sought-after trip of a lifetime.

More was in large supply on a recent christening cruise of the Emerald Sakara, a 100-guest superyacht that not only sports the perfect balance of luxury, unpretentiousness and amenities, but takes a company known for river cruising to deeper depths.

Sakara is a near-twin to Azzurra, which in early 2022 ushered in a new era for Emerald (emeraldcruises.com) by taking to the high seas. Now with two oceangoing vessels joining Emerald’s more established fleet of nine river-dedicated “Star-Ships” based in Europe and Southeast Asia, the decade-old brand is bringing the little things that make a big difference to even more of the world. After all, Sakara is a Sanskrit mantra meaning “thoughts become things.”

The Amici Lounge and adjoining bar is a comfy social setting aboard the Emerald Azzurra. (Photo by David Dickstein)
The Amici Lounge and adjoining bar is a comfy social setting aboard the Emerald Azzurra. (Photo by David Dickstein)

The nice surprises that contributed to Sakara making a good first impression came from sources unique to even ultra-luxury cruising, which Emerald isn’t. Scenic (scenicusa.com), Emerald’s five-star sister brand, is, and while a butler and other perks are lovely, are they worth paying 50% more? That’s between you and your travel budget, but to give an example of the cost of an ocean cruise on Emerald, balcony cabins on a seven-day sail this summer in the Mediterranean were going for as low as $6,500 per person, double occupancy, at press time.

Among the mini mindblowers observed on Sakara’s christening cruise in the Caribbean was a bartender who shook a martini to the beat of the lounge singer’s song. On paper or pixel, that may sound more like fun than a big deal. Au contraire. By getting jiggy with the cruise director’s crowd-pleasing cover of Dua Lipa’s “Levitating,” the Amici Bar’s cordial and competent mixologist was able to serve thirsty guests without being a distraction during the show. Too often the sounds of a shaker or blender drown out an artist’s performance, but not here.

A Sakara server redefines the swim-up bar for thirsty passengers in the British Virgin Islands. (Photo by David Dickstein)
A Sakara server redefines the swim-up bar for thirsty passengers in the British Virgin Islands. (Photo by David Dickstein)

When favorable conditions allow Sakara’s marina platform to be open, guests are served cocktails and fruit skewers while enjoying a variety of water sports equipment. Nothing says “cruise vacation” like kayaking off your luxury superyacht and out of the corner of your sunglassed eye a tray-holding waiter is standing on the aft’s edge with an enticing tropical drink to enhance this precious moment of serenity on crystal-clear waters.

Emerald's superyachts feature an infrared sauna in the spa. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Emerald’s superyachts feature an infrared sauna in the spa. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Heading inside, another delightful surprise that speaks to Emerald’s unique culture of passenger relations is found at the Elements Spa. In a world where one wellness company enjoys a near-monopoly on cruise ships, and negative effects of that surface way too often, how refreshing to experience the difference when a cruise line keeps things in-house. When a male guest who was enquiring about salon services told a stylist he only needed a trim on the sides and neck, instead of booking an appointment, the worker showed the passenger to his chair and gave him a comped quickie cut. The stylist even refused a tip, informing the astonished, freshly coiffed gentleman that “we believe in making relationships more than we do an immediate profit.”

Nothing topped that for shock value during the christening cruise, but whether appealing to the eyes, mind or stomach, amazement followed Sakara from Puerto Rico to the shores of the British Virgin Islands and St. Barts.

Strawberry pavlova is a featured dessert on an Emerald cruise. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Strawberry pavlova is a featured dessert on an Emerald cruise. (Photo by David Dickstein)

With few exceptions, the galley cooked up plenty of palate pleasers at Sakara’s two eateries. La Cucina on Deck 3 is the yacht’s spacious main dining room, serving buffet breakfasts and lunches, and full-service dinners. The ceviches and most other seafood dishes that week were on par with better luxury cruise lines, and bravo to an executive chef confident enough to allow guests to play Frankenstein with menu items; adding grilled chicken breast and breaded eggplant to the pasta arrabbiata was a winner. Dessert selections were so-so, other than a pretty and pretty good strawberry pavlova, but giving a server carte blanche on concocting a chocolate lover’s sundae yielded sinfully delicious results. The poolside Aqua Café on Deck 6 offers cooked-to-order flatbreads, burgers and hot dogs, premade sandwiches, power bowl salads and yummy ship-made ice cream.

An impromptu Cape Cod pairs well with leisurely kayaking on a luxury cruise. (Photo by David Dickstein)
An impromptu Cape Cod pairs well with leisurely kayaking on a luxury cruise. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Aside from wine and beer at lunch and dinner, and a surprise cocktail while kayaking, potent potables are generally not included in the fare with Emerald as it is on sister Scenic. Six-dollar cocktails of the day and drink packages are available, as are contemporary and comfortable environs in which to imbibe. If the aforementioned Amici Bar and Lounge is the yacht’s community center, offering lots of seating and an area for live music, then the Sky Bar on the top deck is the local watering hole at night and sailaway, weather permitting.

Sakara, like its year-older twin, Azzurra, has a décor perhaps best described as understated elegance. The common areas of the 361-foot yacht are clad and carpeted in shades of silver and gray, with chrome, mirrors and artwork that are anything but gaudy. The spa is equally tasteful from the massage rooms to the complimentary infrared sauna.

Emerald Sakara, as viewed from her twin, Azzurra, in St. Barts. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Emerald Sakara, as viewed from her twin, Azzurra, in St. Barts. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Vibe-wise, Sakara feels like a private yacht. That’s especially true for occupants of the two Owner Suites. Each provides 1,195 square feet of wow factor, including a sizable outdoor terrace, lounge area and walk-in closet. Two Yacht Suites measure 720 square feet at the aft of the Observation Deck. Balcony Cabins make up 36 of the yacht’s 50 cabins, and seem larger than their roughly 300 square feet due to minimalist décor on the walls, smart and efficient features and ample storage. The only guestrooms without a veranda are the six Oceanview Cabins sized at around 200 square feet.

The infinity Aqua Pool offers refreshing serenity. (Photo by David Dickstein)
The infinity Aqua Pool offers refreshing serenity. (Photo by David Dickstein)

The cruise line offers three types of shore excursions, two of which are included in the fare; EmeraldPLUS tours tend to offer an introduction to local culture, and EmeraldACTIVE excursions include guided hikes, e-bike outings and snorkeling adventures. DiscoverMORE options are in-depth excursions and experiences of various exertion levels, and generally cost between $100 and $200. Exploring the beautiful, whitewashed village of Oia when anchored in Santorini, touring the volcano-doomed Roman city of Pompeii while in Sorrento, and ziplining through a rainforest near Antigua are just a few of the upcharging tours.

After spending the rest of winter in the Caribbean, Sakara will continue a schedule of mostly seven-day itineraries in the Mediterranean from April through October. Emerald’s flagship then returns to the Caribbean, going back and forth every week between St. Martin and Barbados from this December to April 2025.

Sakara’s slightly older twin will see more of the world over the next couple of years. Besides the Caribbean and Mediterranean, Azzurra will get her passport stamped in Africa, the Middle East, South America, Central America and the Seychelles by the end of 2025. Between the two superyachts, only Azzurra is currently offering itineraries as long as 12 nights.

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812708 2024-01-11T15:49:48+00:00 2024-01-11T15:56:42+00:00
Travel: Looking to go on a cruise in 2024? Here’s what you need to know https://www.morningjournal.com/2023/12/27/travel-looking-to-go-on-a-cruise-in-2024-heres-what-you-need-to-know/ Wed, 27 Dec 2023 21:02:15 +0000 https://www.morningjournal.com/?p=808198&preview=true&preview_id=808198 The BBC wasn’t being cheeky when the U.K. news bureau ran an online story with the headline, “Will we ever take cruise holidays again?” Back on April 9, 2020, the future of cruising truly was in doubt. Almost overnight, fears caused by a mysterious deadly virus brought a thriving industry worth $46 billion to its waterlogged knees, and with it a sinking feeling shared by millions of seabound vacationers whose plans were suddenly drydocked.

As a weary world sanitized, masked up, distanced itself and prayed for a panacea, perhaps the last place people imagined themselves being, besides the emergency room, was on water with perhaps thousands of strangers of questionable hygiene and health.

What a difference four years make. Not only have vaxxing requirements been jettisoned except for rare itineraries, but as the books close on 2023, an estimated 31.5 million passengers will have taken to the world’s oceans within the past 12 months. That’s a rebound beyond 2019 demand levels for the first time since the pandemic struck, according to the Cruise Lines International Association. Even rosier, the industry’s top trade organization projects a 6% increase from pre-pandemic numbers in 2024, and the boost isn’t necessarily coming from the standard sources of retirees and families.

“Consumer intent to cruise is at an all-time high, with millennials and Gen Xers leading the way in their desire to cruise,” said Kelly Craighead, CLIA president and CEO.

CLIA’s latest annual report notes that at least 73% of those in their 40s and 50s are interested in taking their first cruise, and that over 86% of those who have plan to sail again.

“This trajectory reflects the increasing number of travelers embracing the extraordinary experiences and exceptional value of cruising,” Craighead said. “They recognize the benefit of visiting multiple locations while only unpacking once, the breadth of onboard activities, entertainment and dining options, and that cruising offers something for every taste and all ages — in size and types of ships, onboard experiences and itinerary choices.”

So, where on earth are all these vessels and voyagers going? Let’s explore some of the more exciting 2024 itineraries out of the West and beyond to get an idea. Perhaps our journalistic journey will inspire you to be among the 36 million happy holidaymakers expected to enjoy a cruise vacation — and a spin or two around the buffet — in the coming year.

Before we throw the confetti, we do have to take the wind out of your sails if you had your heart set on being the longest cruise out of California in 2024. It’s been sold out for three years, and didn’t even take 24 hours after being announced. But just because Oceania’s 180-night, 96-port, 33-country, four-continent and three-season journey out of L.A. may not be in the cards (and those 684 passengers will be playing a lot of that, no doubt), the new year is filled with other, albeit less lengthy exotic adventures that, at least at press time, had availability.

Margaritas, mai tais and moose

Mexican Riviera cruises often offer an unobstructed view of Cabo's iconic El Arco. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Mexican Riviera cruises often offer an unobstructed view of Cabo’s iconic El Arco. (Photo by David Dickstein)

With Mexico being a year-round destination, cruise ships out of California’s four busiest cruise ports almost instinctively migrate south of the border whatever the season. More than 300 roundtrips from Los Angeles, Long Beach, San Diego and San Francisco are scheduled in the coming year. Most of the projected 1 million passengers sailing from San Pedro’s World Cruise Center in 2024 will do so on Royal Caribbean’s Navigator of the Seas, Discovery Princess and Norwegian Bliss. Oceania and Regent Seven Seas also will make jaunts to Mexico from the Port of Los Angeles, which has announced plans to expand its cruise operations within the next few years. Good thing, too, as CLIA projects passengership to swell to 39.5 million by 2027. Plus, the global orderbook shows 67 new cruise ships through 2028, and L.A. is a major source market for the industry.

Crossing over the Vincent Thomas and Gerald Desmond bridges into Long Beach, Carnival has a flotilla of Fun Ships heading down to Mexico in 2024. Combining for nearly 200 trips to the land of fiesta will be Radiance, Panorama, Miracle and, debuting in April, Firenze, a former Costa ship that’s been renovated and reflagged to bring “Fun, Italian style,” as Carnival calls it, to the Pacific.

Carnival Panorama is one of four Fun Ships sailing south of the border in 2024. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Carnival Panorama is one of four Fun Ships sailing south of the border in 2024. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Most seven-day sails from Southern California make calls to at least two of the three most popular ports of the Mexican Riviera — Cabo, Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlán — while Ensenada is usually the lone foreign stop on trips of three or four days. The only itineraries that reach the big three out of San Francisco are 10- and 11-day voyages on the Crown Princess and Ruby Princess. Roughly half of the longer journeys are sea days — a plus or minus depending on the cruiser.

The second-most popular cruise destination from California is Alaska, short as the season is. The peak period is between Memorial Day and Labor Day. The Golden State bows to the Pacific Northwest in the number of voyages to the Last Frontier, but there are 25 on the docket for 2024. All but one are 10- and 11-day roundtrips from San Francisco, aboard the Carnival Miracle and Crown Princess. The one outlier itinerary is a season-opening, 14-day turnaround that sets sail on April 21 in Long Beach.

Juneau is a regular stop on Alaska cruises that peak from May to September. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Juneau is a regular stop on Alaska cruises that peak from May to September. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Sailing out of Seattle or Vancouver cuts out several sea days, getting you much faster to Juneau’s resplendent, yet receding Mendenhall Glacier and Skagway’s scenic White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad. Fourteen workhorse ships will be sleepless in Seattle, combining for more than 250 seven-day roundtrips this season. In the mainstream, value-priced category, Carnival is deploying Luminosa and Spirit; Norwegian has Bliss, Encore, Jewel and Sun; and Royal Caribbean is going with sister ships Ovation of the Seas and Quantum of the Seas. Premium-class ships include the Celebrity Edge, making its Alaska debut after six years afloat; Holland America’s Eurodam and Westerdam; Princess’ Discovery and Majestic; and Oceania’s Regatta, the smallest ship of those mentioned with a capacity of 656.

Because of proximity and qualification as a law-requiring foreign port, Vancouver, British Columbia, tends to offer the widest variety of cruise lines, ships and durations to Alaska. The upcoming season won’t be any different. Besides all of the above-mentioned cruise lines, other than Carnival, north of the border is where you can also sail with luxury brands Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Crystal, Viking and Ponant, along with Cunard, Disney and Lindblad/National Geographic of the premium category. Hurtigruten and American Queen Voyages also will sail out of western Canada starting in May.

While many consider seeing the 49th state as a bucket list item, a cruise to the 50th isn’t exactly chopped liver with a side of poi. Five cruise lines, 10 ships and 35 roundtrips out of four California ports will have hulls doing the hula to Hawaii in 2024 — just not in summer when ships assigned to the West Coast are needed in Alaska. Carnival, Princess and Viking are booking the most aloha-spirited roundtrips from Los Angeles, Long Beach, San Diego and San Francisco. Those are usually two-week sails, give or take a day. In February and September, Holland America has voyages of 35 and 51 days that visit four Hawaiian islands and French Polynesia before returning to San Diego.

Fresh on the boat

Royal Caribbean's Icon of the Seas, which debuts out of Miami in January 2024, completed sea trials in November 2023 while construction nears completion at the Meyer Turku shipyards in Turku, Finland. (Courtesy of Royal Caribbean International)
Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas, which debuts out of Miami in January 2024, completed sea trials in November 2023 while construction nears completion at the Meyer Turku shipyards in Turku, Finland. (Courtesy of Royal Caribbean International)

Risky as sailing on a new ship can be, with things not running like a well-oiled machine or just not yet ready for prime time, some people love the thrill of being early adopters at sea. With plenty of 2024 models from which to choose, getting whiffs of that new-ship smell will be as easy as flying to Miami to board Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas, the largest cruise ship ever with up to 7,600 passengers getting nautical on 20 decks. If the inaugural sail on Jan. 24 is too rushed, bear in mind that Icon is making back-to-back seven-night Caribbean sails through at least April 2026.

Icon of the Seas will feature a next-gen ice rink that somehow outdoes the one on Wonder of the Seas (pictured) and other Royal Caribbean ships. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Icon of the Seas will feature a next-gen ice rink that somehow outdoes the one on Wonder of the Seas (pictured) and other Royal Caribbean ships. (Photo by David Dickstein)

From October to March 2025, another record setter will get tropical out of Fort Lauderdale. Although puny in comparison to Icon, the 4,314-guest Sun Princess will be the largest for the Santa Clarita-based premium line. Sun welcomes her first passengers on Feb. 8 for a 10-day voyage from Barcelona to Rome.

Rounding out the freshman class of 2024: Cunard’s art deco-designed, 3,000-passenger Queen Anne debuts in May with a 14-day journey from England to the Canary Islands and Spain; her majesty sails from New York in January 2025 and a month later in San Francisco. … Silversea’s 738-passenger Silver Ray begins her inaugural season in the Mediterranean in June, then migrates to Florida in the winter to embark on a 72-day Grand Voyage around South America. … Royal Caribbean unveils its second new ship of the year in July with Utopia of the Seas, the sixth and final Oasis-class ship; three- and four-day getaways will sail from Port Canaveral to the Bahamas, including the line’s private paradise, the near-perfect Perfect Day at CocoCay. … Disney Cruise Line’s floating fairy tale, the 4,000-guest Disney Treasure, gets unwrapped next Christmas an hour east of Walt Disney World in Port Canaveral; bookings are open as far out as May 2025 for weeklong roundtrips to the Caribbean, with or without yo-ho-ho’ing pirates.

If you go …

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808198 2023-12-27T16:02:15+00:00 2023-12-27T16:10:02+00:00
Travel: The best way to see Scandinavia is by sea https://www.morningjournal.com/2023/12/11/travel-the-best-way-to-see-scandanavia-is-by-sea/ Mon, 11 Dec 2023 20:41:58 +0000 https://www.morningjournal.com/?p=803639&preview=true&preview_id=803639 After nearly a week of trying to find silver linings for 2,000 passengers tired of all the dark clouds, the skipper of Cunard’s Queen Victoria went on the intercom to deliver a puckish platitude on the penultimate day of a 7-day Scandinavian cruise.

“You don’t go to Norway to get a suntan,” Capt. Tomas Connery deadpanned during his daily announcement that made it clear that the skies still weren’t.

Nasty weather was as menacing as a mythical Norwegian troll during our journey through the country’s bucket list-worthy fjords. Strong winds thwarted our first port of call, Stavanger, and the fog was so thick atop Sognefjellet Mountain the following morning that those with early bus tours got zero payoff for braving three hours of a winding road claimed to be Norway’s highest.

In fairness to Captain Connery, Cunard, the cruise industry and Mother Nature, inclement weather should not be a surprise to anyone who does their homework and still books a Norwegian cruise in August, the country’s wettest month. But instead of pointing out the obvious to any grimacing guests, Queen Victoria’s shipmaster used his people and maritime skills to successfully navigate through prickly conditions inside and outside the ship.

Cunard's Queen Victoria anchored in Skjolden, Norway. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Cunard’s Queen Victoria anchored in Skjolden, Norway. (Photo by David Dickstein)

The beauty of a cruise to Norway or pretty much anywhere in Scandinavia is, well, the beauty. Even when it rains, between the drops is a visual of one of the most picturesque places in the world. And since nearly all major cruise lines avoid sailing to this desirable destination during the harshest months of November through February, rare are itineraries that get scrapped entirely. Give or take a port or two, there’s perhaps no better or easier way to see Denmark, Finland, Greenland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden — collectively considered as the broader Scandinavia — than by cruise ship.

Continuing with the when, which can be just as important as the where and who, while June and July make up the peak season for cruises in this subregion of Northern Europe, April and May generally see the first signs of improved weather. Spring also offers less-crowded ships and ports, especially with schools being in session. As with late August to early September, March is a climatic crapshoot. However, travelers on a budget may not mind getting soaked as they soak up savings.

South of the cruise port of Skjolden is Feigefossen, one of the biggest waterfalls in the Norwegian fjords. (Photo by David Dickstein)
South of the cruise port of Skjolden is Feigefossen, one of the biggest waterfalls in the Norwegian fjords. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Most cruise lines flee the Norwegian fjords and symbiotic Nordic region by October, leaving the likes of Hurtigruten and Fred. Olsen cruise lines as stalwarts to capture the Aurora Borealis in the bitter cold of late fall and winter when nights are long. From the Northern Lights to holiday lights, some cruises specialize in visiting Christmas markets starting in late November. Holiday shopping at the gateway of Santa’s HQ must be cooler than the North Pole itself.

Delving deeper into the where, Scandinavia offers water-crossing wanderlusters a smorgasbord of itineraries. Nature lovers have their pick of routes — those that take them to Norway’s fjords, the enchanting archipelagos of Sweden, the glaciers and ice fields of Greenland, the massive waterfalls of Iceland and the serene coastal landscapes of Denmark, to name a few.

Idyllic Skudeneshavn, Norway, is an early 19th-century herring village with old-world charm. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Idyllic Skudeneshavn, Norway, is an early 19th-century herring village with old-world charm. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Scandinavia is also home to charming fishing villages, Norway’s idyllic Skudeneshavn for one, and large cities steeped in Viking history. Shore excursions in Oslo take passengers to the nearby Norwegian Maritime Museum with a 9th-century Viking boat and another vessel believed to be the oldest in the country at 2,200 years old. An overnighter in Stockholm is nirvana for Viking buffs who can spend an entire day in the Swedish countryside exploring such landmarks as Arkils Tingstad, one of the best-preserved Viking public assembly sites in the world, and the dramatic church ruins of St. Olof that date to 1120 AD.

Scandinavia is rich in museums displaying artifacts from the Viking Age. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Scandinavia is rich in museums displaying artifacts from the Viking Age. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Another tour, this one no less spiritual for superfans of HBO’s fantasy drama “Game of Thrones,” transports folks from their cruise ship in Reykjavik, Iceland, and into a world where tales from Norse mythology were retold a millennium later for the TV series. If you’ve ever dreamed about standing at the very waterfall where Daenerys’ dragon eats a goat after going on a fiery rampage, then your Viking ship has come in with this tour.

As riders dangle above on Himmelskibet (Star Flyer), a brakeman controls the speed of Rutschebanen, one of the world's oldest wooden roller coasters at Tivoli Gardens. (Photo by David Dickstein)
As riders dangle above on Himmelskibet (Star Flyer), a brakeman controls the speed of Rutschebanen, one of the world’s oldest wooden roller coasters at Tivoli Gardens. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Speaking of fantasy and pop culture, a favorite shore excursion on cruises that include Copenhagen is a visit to Tivoli Gardens. Opened in 1843, the third-oldest operating amusement park in the world contributed greatly to Walt Disney’s vision for Disneyland. Tivoli’s thrill rides are off the chain, figuratively speaking, of course, and how amazing that the undisputed adrenaline champ on these hallowed grounds is a wooden roller-coaster over a century old. Rutschebanen is not only one of the oldest coasters in the world, but it was an inspiration for the Matterhorn Bobsleds ride in Anaheim.

Turning to the who, as in which cruise lines hit the mark in Denmark and know their way through Norway, Scandinavia is a buyer’s market. Besides offering a boatload of ships, this destination is rare in that large liners will dock next to small villages and modest vessels make calls to major cities. Nearly every age, level of ambition, focus and budget has a match when looking for a Scandinavian cruise.

Ultra-luxury cruise lines generally skew toward seniors as a market segment, but Scandinavian voyages tend to attract a slightly younger demographic. Whatever the age, though, these ships promise the best of the best, as they should with fares in the five digits … per person. Crystal (crystalcruises.com), one of the elite brands, will have both of its recently rebuilt ships stretching their sea legs in Scandinavian waters over the next two summers. On the Crystal Symphony, guests in August 2025 will have the rare opportunity to visit Longyearbyen, Norway, the world’s northernmost settlement and famous for its high probability of seeing the Northern Lights as the place is completely dark and far removed from artificial lighting.

Lakeside Jostedalsbreen National Park Center in Stryn, Norway, is as charming as it is educational. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Lakeside Jostedalsbreen National Park Center in Stryn, Norway, is as charming as it is educational. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Ultra-luxury Regent Seven Seas (rssc.com) has a “North Sea Odyssey” scheduled in July that includes Sweden and Denmark, and a “Norwegian Summer Sojourn” in June 2025 that goes to Oslo and deep into those grand fjords. Both voyages are 18 days. Other tony brands that serve Scandinavia include Ponant, Seabourn, Scenic, Silversea, Viking and Windstar.

The widest selection of voyages is from ships flying the flag of cruise lines in the premium category. Holland America Line (hollandamerica.com) has a variety of Scandinavian cruises from April to October in both 2024 and 2025. Itineraries range from 7 to 42 days with most weeklong sails being roundtrips out of Rotterdam, Holland. A few voyages to the region start in Boston or Fort Lauderdale for those who prefer to leave out of the U.S.

The cruise season is a bit longer for Cunard (cunard.com), which makes runs to Norway as late as November and, to the delight of experimental palates, puts a strong emphasis on serving indigenous dishes. Wild Norwegian Reindeer Pie, anyone? The vast majority of Cunard’s Scandinavian sails originate from Southampton, as did ours, and while it’s quicker to fly there from the States, early birds can board the Queen Mary 2 in Brooklyn for a luxurious transatlantic add-on to and from the English port. Roundtrips from the Big Apple range from 23 to 31 days.

Grilled Norwegian langoustines is a tasty starter on select Cunard itineraries. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Grilled Norwegian langoustines is a tasty starter on select Cunard itineraries. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Princess Cruises (princess.com), another premium-class brand, will sail two ships in 2024 — Caribbean Princess and Sky Princess — with trips of 7 to 28 days, all out of Southampton. During calls to Copenhagen, Princess offers an exclusive “Beer Walk” tour that celebrates the surprisingly fresh and unorthodox flavors for which the city’s breweries are known.

Celebrity Cruises (celebritycruises.com) navigates the region’s waters with journeys of 7 to 13 days from May to August. The line’s Apex and Silhouette ships set sail from Rotterdam, Amsterdam and Southampton. Other premium-category brands that sail to Scandinavia include Azamara, Disney, Lindblad/National Geographic and Oceania.

Mainstream cruise lines have the highest-density ships, but often the lowest prices. These brands do have their advantages even for folks who prefer not to make thousands of new best friends while on vacation. With boundless entertainment, activities, food options and services, there’s always something to do onboard should there be little happening onshore. That’s particularly nice when Mother Nature isn’t cooperating or your funds for off-ship fun are exhausted.

Looking at the better mainstream lines, Royal Caribbean (royalcaribbean.com) has four ships positioned in Scandinavia in 2024 and 2025. In addition to roundtrips of 7 to 15 days starting in Holland and England, the 2,476-passenger Serenade of the Seas will make a 22-day journey from Amsterdam to Miami in August. The route goes from cold to hot with Iceland and Greenland at the top of the schedule, then after stopovers in Newfoundland and New York, passengers will thaw out completely in Bermuda and the Bahamas before making sad faces in Florida. Norwegian Cruise Line (ncl.com) is sailing a handful of ships in Scandinavia from May through September over the next two seasons. The workhorse in the fleet will be the 3,100-passenger Norwegian Prima, which set the bar for the value category when it debuted in 2022. Prima, and its younger sister, Viva, blur the line between mainstream and premium.

The when, where and who of a Scandinavian cruise are critical in making a sound decision that for many will be the trip of a lifetime. How wonderful, then, that no matter what dates are circled on the calendar, or where the passport is stamped, or which ship gets you there, spectacular scenery, fascinating cultures and unsurpassed adventures await in one of the most magical places on Earth.

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Travel: Is Hawaii welcoming tourists after the Maui fire? https://www.morningjournal.com/2023/11/10/travel-is-hawaii-welcoming-tourists-after-the-maui-fire-2/ Fri, 10 Nov 2023 20:51:25 +0000 https://www.morningjournal.com/?p=794881&preview=true&preview_id=794881 Even those who don’t speak a word of Hawaiian can usually figure out when aloha means hello or goodbye. But since Aug. 8, when Maui experienced the deadliest wildfire in modern U.S. history, mixed messages are causing mainlanders to wonder if the welcome mat is truly waiting for them halfway across the Pacific.

To come or not to come? That is the question.

One faction of Hawaii residents is telling visitors to stay away so that more resources are available to those recovering from the loss of loved ones and property. Another camp is pleading for tourists to bring much-needed revenue, especially after what is now a one-two punch between the travel-restricting pandemic that lasted roughly two years and the wildfire that only a few months ago ravaged Maui and decimated historic Lahaina Town.

Considerate of both these viewpoints is Grammy-nominated singer-songwriter Henry Kapono, who in between hard-ticket concerts plays Duke’s at the Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort on Sundays.

“Mixed messages are out there,” said the 75-year-old Oahu-born fixture. “The locals in West Maui are especially feeling the hurt of what happened and trying to heal at the same time. As they support themselves, their friends and community, the hope is that they can see the bigger picture of tourism being a key part of that support.”

Because of the devastating fires, Kapono’s Maui gig on his current 50-year anniversary tour has been postponed three months to December. In between, however, he organized a benefit concert in Maui that raised $200,000 for victims.

“It’s really sad about Lahaina,” said one half of the legendary, long-disbanded Hawaiian pop duo Cecilio & Kapono. “I have so many memories of working places that burned to the ground. It will take a while, but we know that Lahaina will come back in some shape or form. Until it does, Maui has other places to enjoy paradise, and people are welcome to have fun on the other islands as well. That’s what Hawaii is all about.”

Maui hosts about a quarter of all visitors to Hawaii, and although much of “The Valley Isle” is fully operational now three months after the catastrophic fires, Oahu, where nearly half of the state’s tourists flock to, seems to be welcoming island-bound travelers with the widest open arms — slathered with sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher, of course.

The Outrigger Reef's signature pineapple crème brulée. (Photo by David Dickstein)
The Outrigger Reef’s signature pineapple crème brulée. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Living up to its nickname of “The Gathering Place,” Oahu is seeing visitorship nearly back to pre-pandemic levels. Vacation-hungry Americans are being wooed by the tropical beauty and weather, world-class resorts and restaurants, and walkability of Waikiki — all accessible without a passport and, for many, a non-stop flight to Honolulu.

Also nonstop is Oahu’s vast array of unique experiences and attractions. With an eye out for what’s new, improved and special, let’s explore this eclectic and exciting island by land, sea and air.

On the ground

Japanese tourists have a blast ATVing on the North Shore. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Japanese tourists have a blast ATVing on the North Shore. (Photo by David Dickstein)

If you’re born to be wild, then get your motor running and head out for an adrenaline junkie’s kind of off-road adventure. New to Oahu is a 2 1/2-hour Pua Pua‘a Piglet ATV Adventure from North Shore EcoTours (northshoreecotours.com), and it packs a Hawaiian punch. Climbing, crawling and sloshing through rocky and often muddy trails in a rugged 4×4 ATV, with no more than three of these six-seaters on the tour, adds to the thrill of plowing through jungle and farm land while being caked in brick-red volcanic dirt that takes a couple of hot showers and loads of laundry to get off your skin and clothes. North Shore EcoTours also offers hikes and rides on electric, solo-rider Mongoose ATVs. Along the way a guide points out interesting landmarks and vegetation ripe for selfies. The Pau Pua‘a tour runs about $300 for two people — a bargain compared to ATV adventures around the world that are half as exhilarating.

Ko Olina Golf Club is a premier course in west Oahu. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Ko Olina Golf Club is a premier course in west Oahu. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Driving on a much different type of course is achieved at the official golf club of the Four Seasons Resort at Ko Olina, Disney’s Aulani Resort and other tony properties on Oahu’s west side. Rated one of Golf Digest’s “Top 75 Resort Courses in the U.S.,” Ko Olina Golf Club (koolinagolf.com), where LPGA star Michelle Wie developed her game, is gorgeous and challenging, yet comfortable for the golfer who may feel unworthy or intimidated playing courses used for pro tours. The grounds also have an above-par pro shop and a Roy’s Hawaiian fusion restaurant. Greens fees are very fair for a facility of this caliber — about $250, less if staying at a partner resort.

Hawaiian history comes alive at the Royal Hawaiian luau. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Hawaiian history comes alive at the Royal Hawaiian luau. (Photo by David Dickstein)

OK, so the most touristy thing one can do in Hawaii is go to a luau. They’re expensive, hokey and cookie-cutter, but not doing one, especially on a first visit, is almost sacrilegious. So, props to the ‘Ahaaina Luau (royal-hawaiianluau.com) at the gorgeous Royal Hawaiian on Waikiki Beach for being different. Oh, it’s pricey, all right, costing $225 or $250, depending on how close you want to sit, but hokey and cookie-cutter it’s not. The show, held on Mondays and Thursdays, follows a three-course dinner that fuses Hawaiian, Korean and Japanese flavors. Told through story, song and dance, the history of Hawaii includes the colorful past of the hallowed grounds upon which the luau’s guests are gathered. Sure, it’s a commercial for the Royal Hawaiian, but it works, and how special for those actually staying at the near-century-old resort.

On the subject of entertainment, opening night isn’t for another year, but we mention Cirque de Soleil’s next permanent show because it’s bound to make a great property in the heart of Waikiki even better. The Outrigger Waikiki Beachcomber Hotel is where an 800-seat theater that’s been dormant since the pandemic is being renovated for a production that will blend Hawaiian culture with Cirque’s signature avant-garde sights and sounds. The show’s name hasn’t been announced yet, but the hospitality company behind it has made a name for itself as ambassadors of the aloha spirit.

The newly renovated Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Hotel. (Photo by David Dickstein)
The newly renovated Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Hotel. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Corny as this may sound, Outrigger’s respect for local culture isn’t just a checkbox. It’s laid in the flooring of the flagship Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Hotel, where Hawaiian words are learned while strolling the lobby area. It’s baked in the locally made pono pie at Duke’s inside the Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort, home of the to-die-for dessert somehow free of gluten, sugar and dairy. And it’s woven in the island-crafted robes hanging in the closet of each unit at the Beachcomber … but they’ll charge you if stolen. The aloha spirit does have its limits.

No gluten, dairy or sugar makes the pono pie at Duke’s a “yes.” (Photo by David Dickstein)

The cultural center at the newly renovated Reef property is a benchmark among all island resorts, as is the hotel’s Kani Ka Pila Grille for live Hawaiian music. Paradise is chowing down on kalua pork nachos and pineapple crème brulée washed down with your favorite umbrella drink while enjoying home-grown contemporary artists every night in a casual outdoor venue, and with no admission charge. Indeed, the spirit of aloha is alive and well while eating, drinking or relaxing at an Outrigger (outrigger.com) property. If you want to add “sleeping” to the list, rates at Outrigger’s top Oahu hotels begin at around $400 a night, which is low for three-diamond AAA-rated hotels in Waikiki that behave more like those with four diamonds.

Four Seasons' lead bartender Michael Milligan leads a mixology masterclass. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Four Seasons’ lead bartender Michael Milligan leads a mixology masterclass. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Recommending a genuine four-diamond property, on the west side of the island is the Four Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko Olina (fourseasons.com). New there is the Noe Mixology Masterclass ($75), a one-hour lesson starring gin, bourbon, rum, mescal, tequila and, on many days, Michael Milligan, formerly from Costa Mesa and now the Four Seasons’ lead bartender who made this guzzling guest the best espresso martini of his life. More hands-on expertise is found at the resort’s elegant Naupaka Spa. Try the 50-minute Signature Lomilomi Massage ($225) and you won’t be either sore or sorry.

Honolulu’s Waikiki area has grown as a foodie destination since the pandemic, and two of the more exciting newcomers are La Bettola Waikiki at the ‘Alohilani Resort (alohilaniresort.com) and Redfish at the Wayfinder Waikiki (wayfinderhotels.com). La Bettola, opened in June, features authentic Italian fare married with local ingredients under the guise of renowned chef Tsutomu Ochiai. His neighbor at the Alohilani is “Iron Chef” Masaharu Morimoto’s Momosan, home of perhaps the best ramen and sushi on Oahu.

The signature dishes at Redfish are the poke bowls, but it’s hard to beat the honey walnut shrimp. Opened in May, Redfish augments a boutique hotel with a cool and kitschy vibe that’s only outdone by its ‘60s-feel sister property, the White Sands Hotel, a few blocks away. Best of Waikiki’s chain restaurants: Hula Grill at the Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort, Tommy Bahama Restaurant on Beachwalk Drive and Monkeypod Kitchen at the Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Hotel.

In the air

Since you’re probably already spending thousands on a Hawaiian vacation, what’s another $400 to guarantee an even more memorable trip? That’s how much it is, per person, to see Oahu at rainbow level. Blue Hawaiian Helicopters (bluehawaiian.com) has a 65-minute Complete Island Tour from Honolulu that includes the biggies: Pearl Harbor and the Arizona Memorial, Diamond Head, the surfing mecca of North Shore and Oahu’s tallest waterfall.

On the water

A couple shares a romantic moment on the Waikiki Sunset Cocktail Cruise. (Photo by David Dickstein)
A couple shares a romantic moment on the Waikiki Sunset Cocktail Cruise. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Sailing tours are among the more popular things to do while in Hawaii, and if you’re hoping to set a course for more romance than adventure, climb aboard the 150-foot, three-deck Majestic for a crowd-escaping Waikiki Sunset Cocktail Cruise (majestichawaii.com). Operated by Atlantis, which will be happy to take you under the water as well in one of its submarines, the cruise ($79 for adults, $39.50 for children) parallels the Waikiki coast for stunning views that culminate at sunset when the orange sun sinks behind the Hawaiian horizon. Majestic is the only cruise around with a full-service bar and lounge that offers open seating.

Tourists watch a sunset from world-famous Waikiki. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Tourists watch a sunset from world-famous Waikiki. (Photo by David Dickstein)

All this is just a drop in the warm and inviting ocean. For more on Oahu, visit gohawaii.com/islands/oahu.

 

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794881 2023-11-10T15:51:25+00:00 2023-11-20T11:32:45+00:00
When booking a cruise, here’s how to choose less scary destinations https://www.morningjournal.com/2023/10/20/when-booking-a-cruise-heres-how-to-choose-less-scary-destinations/ Fri, 20 Oct 2023 19:41:20 +0000 https://www.morningjournal.com/?p=787928&preview=true&preview_id=787928 Halloween or any time of year, tourists who are too relaxed while on vacation may be subject to more tricks than treats due to evil that walks among us or lurks in the shadows. As sure as well wishes of “safe travels” by loved ones cannot be guaranteed in this topsy-turvy world, a momentary lapse of awareness in the presence of unsavory souls can be the difference between a trip as sweet as Skittles or as sour as Lemonheads.

Still in our Debbie Downer costume, we must note that cruise vacations are not exempt from holiday hazards at the hands of heisters, or worse. While it’s almost always smooth sailing for passengers onboard, conditions onshore can get choppy if one isn’t cautious.

The Department of State's travel advisory list indicates smooth sailing in and around near-trouble-free Australia. Here, a Carnival ship heads toward Brisbane. (Photo by David Dickstein)
The Department of State’s travel advisory list indicates smooth sailing in and around near-trouble-free Australia. Here, a Carnival ship heads toward Brisbane. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Whether arriving by land, air or sea, tourists are prime targets for crime because they typically carry fat wallets and other personal valuables while being distracted. Lacking in the local landscape, language or culture adds to a visitor’s vulnerability. Those coming by ship can be more at risk because they are typically less likely to report an incident so not to eat into their fleeting time in port.

Scary stuff, but consulting with a travel advisor named Uncle Sam in advance of your trip could quell some nerves. The U.S. Department of State offers country-specific safety and security information at www.travel.state.gov/destination. The Bureau of Consular Affairs’ travel alerts and advisories are especially beneficial when choosing a cruise itinerary. Looking at voyages to the Caribbean that include calls to Roatan and Puerto Quetzal? Popular as these stops in Honduras and Guatemala are, respectively, the U.S. government strongly suggests you think otherwise as rampant crime is a chief reason both countries at press time were at Level 3, the tier that comes with the warning of “reconsider travel.”

Petty crime is reportedly prevalent in Ocho Rios and other Jamaican cruise ports. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Petty crime is reportedly prevalent in Ocho Rios and other Jamaican cruise ports. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Not everything is “irie” in Jamaica, either, as the local slang for “all right” contradicts alarming crime statistics that earn the home of three of the most popular ports in the Western Caribbean — Montego Bay, Falmouth and Ocho Rios — the second-most severe level. Jamaica is notorious for its reckless drivers, sketchy tour guides and aggressive vendors whose wares aren’t necessarily the kind allowed back on the ship.

The fact that cruise lines go where trouble follows, sometimes several times a day at a single port considered high risk by the U.S. government, isn’t lost on maritime lawyer and TikTok star Spencer Aronfeld (www.aronfeld.com).

Low on crime and high on relaxation, Saint Martin/Sint Maarten, a Caribbean island shared by the French and Dutch, gets Level 1 status by the U.S. government. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Low on crime and high on relaxation, Saint Martin/Sint Maarten, a Caribbean island shared by the French and Dutch, gets Level 1 status by the U.S. government. (Photo by David Dickstein)

“Cruise lines have an obligation to keep passengers safe, and yet they still make calls in countries and port neighborhoods deemed dangerous to visit by the State Department,” said the Miami-based Aronfeld. “Every season, tens of thousands of passengers are dropped off in ports in Level 3 countries without warning. What the cruise lines are doing in the process is lulling people with a false sense of security.”

There is no specter of sugarcoating where the current fighting between Israeli and Hamas forces is involved. Since the latest war in the Middle East broke out on Oct. 7, cruise lines making calls to the Israeli ports of Ashdod and Haifa have either canceled voyages outright or altered itineraries to send ships elsewhere in the Mediterranean. Celebrity, Holland America, MSC, Norwegian, Oceania, Princess and Regent Seven Seas are among the cruise lines that have announced schedule changes effective through at least November, if not the indefinite future.

While no place is 100% safe, dozens of cruise favorites around the globe are in solid standing with the bureau and other influencers that publicly track crime statistics. Level 1 countries that roll out the welcome mat on gangways include Argentina, Australia, Barbados, Bermuda, British Virgin Islands, Canada, Cayman Islands, Curacao, French Polynesia, French West Indies, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Malta, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Singapore and Sint Maarten/Saint Martin (so, the Dutch and French sides of the island).

Cayman Islands, considered the safest Caribbean country for visitors, is graced by a string of inviting resorts along Seven Mile Beach. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Cayman Islands, considered the safest Caribbean country for visitors, is graced by a string of inviting resorts along Seven Mile Beach. (Photo by David Dickstein)

With more than a million visitors in post-pandemic 2022, nearly 75% arriving by ship, George Town in Cayman Islands is the busiest international cruise port in a Level 1 country. And why not? Cayman has stunning tropical beaches, world-class luxury resorts, superb food and extremely low crime that many contribute to the nation’s high quality of life. At the Westin Grand Cayman Seven Mile Beach Resort & Spa, for example, a perfectly sunny day this past summer was made even more idyllic when not a single peddler or suspicious character shared the white sandy shore with us holiday makers — a rarity in the Caribbean, where on most beaches the wise don’t all go into the ocean together; someone must always stay back to mind the stuff.

As tourists take fun photos at the Leaning Tower of Pisa, thugs could be focused on taking other things. (Photo by David Dickstein)
As tourists take fun photos at the Leaning Tower of Pisa, thugs could be focused on taking other things. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Destinations given Level 2 status come with an “exercise increased caution” advisory. Mexico is on that sublist mostly due to such violent crime as homicide, kidnapping, carjacking and robbery, which the U.S. government says is “widespread and common” south of the border. Turkey also was at Level 2 at press time, but for different reasons; the government considers it a target for terrorism. The average tourist, however, is more likely to encounter snatching and pickpocketing within the country’s economic and cultural capital of 16 million people; frenetic Istanbul is a common stop on Mediterranean cruise itineraries. Venice is in the same gondola. Petty crime against visitors is a big issue there, which makes wearing a money belt as smart as getting gelato where the longest lines are. Rome, Florence, Pisa, Naples and even Vatican City are other havens for unsaintly activity in and around Italy. Infamous as Italy is for its petty crime on tourists, the main reason the country is at Level 2 is, like Turkey, the threat of terrorism.

Not all nations share the same dangers, of course, but each does have its good and bad sections — something that the State Department’s travel advisories don’t often factor in. After all, if the United States was listed, would it be fair for Honolulu, considered the safest American city with over 300,000 people, to be lumped in with St. Louis, supposedly the most dangerous? If it were, all of America would likely be at Level 2 or 3. The U.S. Department of State does issue a warning for one domestic cruise destination: While in Puerto Rico, travelers are advised to take necessary precautions to avoid such petty crimes as theft and muggings. Like on the mainland, PR also has its share of public protests, something else to avoid.

Tourists are advised to stay away from public protests, even on American soil in Puerto Rico. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Tourists are advised to stay away from public protests, even on American soil in Puerto Rico. (Photo by David Dickstein)

The U.S. government’s one-size-fits-all approach for its advisories effects cruise mainstay Haiti as well. The country is assigned to the same Level 4 (“do not travel”) category as Russia, Ukraine, North Korea, Iraq and Iran, but several cruise lines operate private destinations there. These private islands, as they’re called, are regarded as some of the safest places in the world for shore excursions. That why it’s probably best to heed these travel advisories, but not as gospel. To wit, Jeddah is an up-and-coming cruise port in Saudi Arabia — the region is rich in UNESCO World Heritage archaeological sites — and while reported crime on tourists is low there, the country, itself, is at Level 3. Justification for the harsh ranking is an apparent threat of missile and drone attacks on civilian facilities, but the hot zones indicated by the State Department are far from Jeddah and likely inconsequential to cruise ships.

“I know it might be hard for Americans to believe, but Jeddah is one of the world’s safest ports,” said maritime lawyer Aronfeld. “They don’t have the same day-to-day crime that tarnishes so many otherwise amazing cruise destinations.”

Whether traveling to Montego Bay, Newport Bay or anywhere on holiday, taking a few precautions can make a globetrotting world of difference. Here are some common-sense tips for safekeeping:

  • Be extra cautious where and when risks are moderate to high.
  • Avoid isolated areas and travel in groups when possible.
  • Leave valuables in your stateroom or hotel safe, and what you do wear or carry should always be secured, if not inconspicuous.
  • Two words: money belt.
  • Two more words: drink responsibly.
  • Go on YouTube and TikTok to familiarize yourself with local scams.
  • Have local emergency numbers handy including your country’s nearest embassy or consulate.
  • When personal safety could be at risk, ask yourself, “Is it worth it?”
  • Trust your instincts.

Safe travels!

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787928 2023-10-20T15:41:20+00:00 2023-10-20T15:46:49+00:00
Travel: Ever wanted to sail to a private island? Here’s how you can https://www.morningjournal.com/2023/06/02/travel-ever-wanted-to-sail-to-a-private-island-heres-how-you-can/ Fri, 02 Jun 2023 19:13:13 +0000 https://www.morningjournal.com/?p=750055&preview=true&preview_id=750055 As cruise lines vie for industry supremacy in myriad categories onboard, they’re also playing a game of one-upmanship onshore. Private islands, those secluded oases of fun and sun that await cruisers on many warm-weathered itineraries, are as much a keeping-up-with-the-Joneses thing as who has the best waterslides, thrill rides, culinary program, entertainment and, yes, even bedding.

Cruise lines have owned or operated private isles for nearly half a century, but perhaps at no other time has the development of these secluded sanctuaries been so feverish. From Central America and the South Pacific to the Caribbean and coast of southern Africa, more than a dozen are in the construction, expansion, renovation or planning phase.

This collective order of full speed ahead by the industry is steel drum music to the ears of cruise vacationers looking for a happy medium between all the seeing and doing options while in port and a relaxing sea day. Because most private islands operate as extensions of the ship, they offer an experience at higher levels of containment, control and cleanliness than a typical beach break shore excursion. It’s not unusual for the food, drink and the people making and serving it to come straight from the ship. Talk about working remotely.

Even if owned by the same cruise line, no two private islands are alike. They all share basic amenities, however: an inviting beach with loungers, umbrellas and lifeguards, casual outdoor eateries, bars aplenty, shopping of various degrees, walking trails, rentable cabanas and a starting point for shore excursions. Some offer elaborate waterparks and ziplines while others feature animal encounters and dedicated kids zones. Because upcharges are part of cruising’s DNA — even “all-inclusive” sails aren’t 100% inclusive — no one should be surprised that a few cruise lines charge extra for the choice spots to catch some rays.

Every major mainstream cruise line — Carnival Cruise Line, Royal Caribbean International, Norwegian Cruise Line, MSC Cruises — owns or leases at least one private island. Most are shared with sister brands of the same corporate portfolio, though visits by ships of higher categories are less frequent; an exception is premium-class Princess Cruises, which has Princess Cays on the larger Bahamian island of Eleuthera.

Perfect Day at CocoCay is a private paradise for RCI passengers. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Perfect Day at CocoCay is a private paradise for RCI passengers. (Photo by David Dickstein)

No man, princess or cruise line is an island as the Bahamas has the highest concentration of these private parcels of paradise. One of the busiest is Perfect Day at CocoCay, which welcomes more than 3 million Royal Caribbean passengers in non-pandemic years, and more are expected once an adults-only section called Hideaway Beach is open later this year. The resort, on Little Stirrup Cay north of Nassau, features North America’s tallest waterslide. From the top, one can see NCL’s Great Stirrup Cay one island over. Opened in 1977, it’s the industry’s first private island getaway. Near the southern end of the archipelagic state, Half Moon Cay and Princess Cays are used by brands of Carnival Corporation including the referenced namesakes and Holland America Line.

Castaway Cay is a frequent stop for Disney ships in the Caribbean. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Castaway Cay is a frequent stop for Disney ships in the Caribbean. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Bringing some Anaheim and Orlando influence to the Bahamas is Disney Cruise Line with Castaway Cay, the perfect place to take snaps with Mickey and friends while holding a glass of non-alcoholic Olaf’s Flurry Freeze. A tropical breeze from the opposite direction is MSC’s lower-key Ocean Cay Marine Reserve. Emphasizing conservation over stimulation, MSC’s take is if you want a theme park experience, go back to the ship where there awaits immersive high-tech entertainment with innovative technology and water play. Meanwhile, it’s adults only at Virgin Voyages’ Beach Club at Bimini, where pool parties and beach bonfires heat up just 55 miles east of Miami.

Wonder of the Seas docked at Labadee in Haiti. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Wonder of the Seas docked at Labadee in Haiti. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Elsewhere in the world, Royal Caribbean’s Labadee in northern Haiti is home to the world’s longest over-water zipline. In Central America, Harvest Caye, owned in partnership by Norwegian and the Belizean government, is unique and not necessarily in a good way. Because the restaurants are owned by locals, there’s no such thing as a free lunch there for NCL and Oceania Cruises passengers.

Norwegian and Oceania passengers get a day of fun and sun at Harvest Caye on select itineraries. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Norwegian and Oceania passengers get a day of fun and sun at Harvest Caye on select itineraries. (Photo by David Dickstein)

On select itineraries in the United Arab Emirates and Qatar, MSC makes stops at its Sir Bani Yas resort southwest of Abu Dhabi. Originally built in 2016 by Costa Cruises, the private island destination’s showpiece is Arabian Wildlife Park, home to over 13,000 endangered and indigenous animals.

On the horizon is Carnival’s yet-to-be-named private port on the southern side of Grand Bahama. Expected to open in late 2024, the destination will have a nature reserve, pool and Bahamian-run shops and restaurants easily accessible by a pier that can accommodate two of the fleet’s largest ships simultaneously.

Royal Caribbean passengers have plenty of recreational options at Perfect Day at CocoCay. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Royal Caribbean passengers have plenty of recreational options at Perfect Day at CocoCay. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Carnival hasn’t made a peep since COVID about its plans to build a private destination in Baja California, but according to Seatrade Cruise News, the world’s largest cruise line and Mexican cruise port developer ITM Group are teaming up to build one in Ensenada. A future stop on cruises to the Mexican Riviera or itineraries to the California coast or Hawaii that, by law, require an international call, the proposed “La Española Village” would feature the usual — local grub and grog, music and other live entertainment — along with an expansive family-friendly adventure park, tentatively dubbed “The Isle at Ensenada.”

Meanwhile, Royal Caribbean is making progress on the pandemic-delayed Perfect Day at Lelepa, the Southern Hemisphere’s first private island destination cruising experience. RCI hasn’t announced an opening date, but based on remarks made by a senior vice president for the company, within the next few months itineraries out of Australia will include a visit to the small island in Vanuatu.

North America's tallest waterslide is found at Perfect Day at CocoCay. (Photo by David Dickstein)
North America’s tallest waterslide is found at Perfect Day at CocoCay. (Photo by David Dickstein)

While many elements of its other private destinations will be repeated in the South Pacific, Royal Caribbean is promising that the Vanuatu resort will not be a cookie-cutter of its existing escapes that cater to a U.S. demographic.

“What’s a perfect day for an Australian is not a perfect day for an American,” said Mark Tamis, Royal Caribbean’s senior vice president of hotel operations. “Thrilling for an Australian might be snorkeling while a thrill for an American might be going down a water slide … not that Australians don’t also like water slides, of course.”

One thing Americans and Australians can agree on, and this goes for everyone else in the world, is having a safe cruise vacation. There could be trouble in paradise if one heeds the warnings of the U.S. Department of State. Travel advisories have been issued for some of the most popular cruise destinations.

Wonder of the Seas docked at Labadee in Haiti. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Wonder of the Seas docked at Labadee in Haiti. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Haiti was at Level 4 at press time, a classification that means “do not travel” to that nation due to “kidnapping, crime, civil unrest, and poor health care infrastructure.” According to the executive agency’s advisory, “Violent crime, such as armed robbery, carjackings, and kidnappings for ransom that include American citizens are common.”

The Bahamas was at Level 2 at last check, but despite the less severe designation, the federal department says increased caution should still be exercised due to “violent crime, such as burglaries, armed robberies and sexual assaults,” particularly in Nassau and Grand Bahama.

Because cruise lines’ private island destinations are under heavy control and security, they can be regarded as sanctuaries, protected from unsavory activities that may occur outside their enclosed perimeters.

“One of the significant benefits of private destinations is they provide a safe environment for passengers,” said maritime lawyer Spencer Aronfeld (www.aronfeld.com). “This is my 33rd year repping passengers. I’ve handled a lot of accidents at these cruise line resorts, but never by third-party crime.”

Harvest Caye is a joint venture of NCL and the Brazilian government. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Harvest Caye is a joint venture of NCL and the Brazilian government. (Photo by David Dickstein)

If there is a downside to these private islands, according to Aronfeld, it’s that they deprive guests of an authentic port experience.

“Take Virgin’s Bimini Beach Club,” he said. “I feel really bad for passengers because they don’t see anything about Bimini. There’s no difference between the club and, say, Fort Lauderdale. But where there’s high crime, these resorts at least give people a chance to say they’ve been on the island. It’s sad to some degree, but it’s better than nothing.”

If you go …

Carnival Cruise Linecarnival.com

Disney Cruise Linedisneycruiseline.com

Holland America Linehollandamerica.com

MSC Cruisesmsccruisesusa.com

Norwegian Cruise Linencl.com

Oceania Cruisesoceaniacruises.com

Princess Cruisesprincess.com

Royal Caribbean Internationalroyalcaribbean.com

Virgin Voyages virginvoyages.com

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750055 2023-06-02T15:13:13+00:00 2023-06-02T15:22:21+00:00
Travel: Holland America celebrates 150 years https://www.morningjournal.com/2023/05/03/travel-holland-america-celebrates-150-years/ Wed, 03 May 2023 16:29:50 +0000 https://www.morningjournal.com/?p=741421&preview=true&preview_id=741421 It’s high season for milestones on the high seas.

A flood of coinciding historical dates has many cruise lines riding a two-year wave of round-numbered anniversaries. For an industry that fears catastrophic weather, this perfect storm is quite welcome. As cruise companies navigate around the revenue-hitting remnants of a pandemic, nearly a dozen with well-timed milestones have a natural tie-in for limited-time deals, merchandise and itineraries, and for their pleasure-seeking passengers and smiling crews, another reason to make merry.

In what sounds like something straight out of “Ripley’s Believe It or Not,” Carnival, Disney, Celebrity, Holland America, MSC, Oceania, Paul Gauguin, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking and Windstar all have major milestones on the calendar. Even sweeter, their dates are beyond the dark cloud of COVID-19. Not as fortunate was one esteemed cruise line; Cunard missed a boatload of pomp and circumstance having its 180th anniversary come about in the fourth month of what became a 15-month industry shutdown. Poor Sir Samuel Cunard, who established the first regularly scheduled transatlantic mail and passenger service with the maiden voyage of Britannia that departed on July 4, 1840.

Princess Margriet of the Netherlands and Holland America President Gus Antorcha dedicate a commemorative 150th anniversary bell at the line's former HQ in Rotterdam. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Princess Margriet of the Netherlands and Holland America President Gus Antorcha dedicate a commemorative 150th anniversary bell at the line’s former HQ in Rotterdam. (Photo by David Dickstein)

As for this year’s anniversaries ending in 0 or 5, the grandest has to be Holland America Line’s 150th. The third-oldest major cruise line (after P&O and Cunard) was founded in Rotterdam, Netherlands, on April 18, 1873. Holland America, or HAL for short, commemorated its sesquicentennial with reverence by having the fleet’s current flagship, the 2-year-old, 2,650-passenger MS Rotterdam, arrive in its namesake city 150 years to the day of the company’s founding. Princess Margriet of the Netherlands participated in a commemorative bell presentation at the Hotel New York that, in a prior life, was HAL’s headquarters from 1901 to 1977. Back on the ship, the seventh in the fleet christened “Rotterdam,” cruise line President Gus Antorcha toasted to the special occasion and the next day’s voyage that would sail to Oslo, Norway, and Copenhagen, Denmark, before docking in Amsterdam, the flagship’s home port for the rest of spring and the entire summer.

On this side of the pond, the 12-deck Rotterdam will sail out of Fort Lauderdale from October through March, returning to the South Florida port again in October 2024 for six more months of Caribbean cruising.

Rotterdam makes a call in Copenhagen, Denmark on a special cruise commemorating Holland America's 150th anniversary. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Rotterdam makes a call in Copenhagen, Denmark on a special cruise commemorating Holland America’s 150th anniversary. (Photo by David Dickstein)

The West Coast market is certainly not without its own anniversary specials. Holland America (hollandamerica.com) is bringing some of its upper-premium-class ships to the Pacific for a new category of extended cruises called Legendary Voyages. Ranging from 25 to 56 days, these cruises will take passengers deeper into a particular region than on a traditional itinerary. Roundtrips from San Diego include the 51-day “Tales of the South Pacific” that goes to Fiji, French Polynesia and Hawaii in September 2024. Out of Seattle that same month, the 53-day “Majestic Japan” will cover Alaska’s Aleutian Islands, a full circle of Japan, a pass-by of Midway Island and then an overnighter in Hawaii before returning to the Emerald City.

Among the more unique and shorter roundtrips from San Diego, HAL’s only Southern California embarkation port, are 14- and 22-nighters that will be perfectly positioned near Mazatlán to view the April 2024 solar eclipse. Eclipsing that itinerary is one we should mention for kicks — unless you have the time and money to sail with Holland America for a recently announced 133-day “Pole-to-Pole” roundtrip in January 2025 that enables cruisers to visit five continents on a journey that travels south to north.

A three-deck atrium is the hub of a Holland America Pinnacle class ship. (Photo by David Dickstein)
A three-deck atrium is the hub of a Holland America Pinnacle class ship. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Back to HAL’s 150th anniversary, nods across the fleet include throwback happy hours which roll back time with select potent potables priced as low as 75 cents. In a way, these cheap drinks pay homage to Holland America inventing the “booze cruise” in 1920 at the start of Prohibition. Back then, once a ship crossed into international waters, the U.S. ban on alcohol didn’t apply. That loophole allowed the cruise line to offer inexpensive overnighters with unlimited drinks through 1933.

Today’s Holland America doesn’t do booze cruises — even four-night trips are rare from the Seattle-based cruise line — but plenty of imbibing still goes on at the fleet’s comfortable bars and lounges. Thanks to the line’s 150th, even more passengers are getting in the spirit with spirits. In addition to the limited-edition HAL Pils, a pilsner beer made in partnership with the Seattle-based Pike Brewing Company, Holland America is debuting an exclusive-label gin. Affectionately named De Lijn, Dutch for “The Line,” Holland America’s first produced liquor bears notes of orange, rose, elderberry, lemon verbena, lemon, raspberry and, of course, juniper. The new signature spirit is featured in three new cocktails onboard: The Dutch 150 is a twist on a French 75 with sparkling wine and lemon juice; the 150th Martini is shaken or stirred with Noilly Pratt vermouth; and the 150th Gin & Tonic is exclusively crafted tableside at the Pinnacle Grill, which rivals Celebrity’s Murano as the best steakhouse at sea.

Reception to these commemorative cocktails has been so favorable, we’re told they’ve already earned their way onto HAL’s permanent drink menu fleetwide. Good call as all three are quite quaffable.

The cashew barramundi curry at Tamarind is authentically Thai. (Photo by David Dickstein)
The cashew barramundi curry at Tamarind is authentically Thai. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Whether bellying up to a bar or grabbing the knife and fork, a Holland America cruise is loaded with Dutch treats. Some are as simple as the conveniences of a coffee carafe left on the dining table and a list of what’s being served at the end of each buffet station. No need to hunt down a server for a refill of joe or play search the smorgasbord on a HAL cruise. Even their afternoon tea is made more pleasurable by abandoning the agonizingly slow cart or item-by-item waiter service in favor of a tantalizing tower of finger sandwiches and fancy sweets presented upon being seated. The wait staff is still given refill duties on the tea, which, being more elegant than coffee during the quintessentially British 4 p.m. ritual, is appropriate.

From tea bags to a mixed bag, that’s what the entertainment and activities are on a HAL cruise. On the plus side, clever scheduling allows three music acts — rock, blues and by-request piano — to play the cruise line’s popular Music Walk in the evening without drowning each other out. The multimedia “Origin Story” in the two-deck World Stage auditorium is an edutaining history lesson on Holland America’s first 150 years. Also in the big theater are performances by the Step One Dance Company, a talented troupe of six hoofers, but three shows a week without a song-and-dance production show thrown in can get tedious.

The Rolling Stone Rock Room is the place to be for classic headbanging covers on Holland America ships. (Photo by David Dickstein)
The Rolling Stone Rock Room is the place to be for classic headbanging covers on Holland America ships. (Photo by David Dickstein)

The overall onboard daily program also can use a makeover and a six-pack of Red Bull. For a premium-category cruise line the range of activities is small, the options are sleepy, and too many on the schedule require a fee. Upcharge or no upcharge, the mix is lacking compared to competitive cruise lines including those that also draw an older demographic. Port days are traditionally thin on things to do on the ship, but on sea days, especially, waking hours shouldn’t be centered on eating.

That said, Holland America has some of the best-tasting and best-plated cuisine afloat, and that includes what’s served on more pricy ultra-luxury lines. Pedestrian as this may seem, HAL certainly has the best gourmet hamburger on sea or land: the Pinnacle Burger, kissed with bacon jam and garlic-chipotle aioli, is only served at lunch in the specialty steakhouse, and so worth the $15 upcharge. The fare-inclusive grub also impresses. For the 150th anniversary season, dinner menus in the main dining room feature classic dishes from Holland America’s historic sailings. The retro “chopped sirloin steak with Robert sauce” tastes better than it sounds.

The gourmet cheeseburger served at Pinnacle Grill at lunchtime is so worth the upcharge. (Photo by David Dickstein)
The gourmet cheeseburger served at Pinnacle Grill at lunchtime is so worth the upcharge. (Photo by David Dickstein)

As noted, HAL isn’t the only cruise line with a milestone anniversary in 2022-24. A year ago, Viking’s (vikingcruises.com) 25th anniversary was commemorated with a first-ever convoy of its three classes of ultra-luxury ships; river, ocean and expedition vessels met in Amsterdam for a news-making ceremony. Also in 2022, Regent Seven Seas (rssc.com) celebrated 30 years of ultra-luxury cruising with a curated collection of unique pearl anniversary voyages on five continents that continue through this year. Even more momentous, Carnival (carnival.com) turned 50 in 2022, and celebrated in true “Fun Ship” style on every mainstream-category cruise of its golden anniversary year.

On to the present: Disney (disneycruise.com) is celebrating 25 years in the premium cruising business with “Silver Anniversary at Sea” experiences this summer that include special entertainment and merchandise on select summer sailings. Royal Caribbean (royalcaribbean.com) has big plans of its own for the 25th birthday of the mainstream line’s Crown and Anchor Society loyalty program. Members can expect enhanced benefits starting this year. Paul Gauguin Cruises (pgcruises.com), which sails exclusively in the South Pacific, is offering air credit on 25 select premium-category voyages this year and next as part of its 25th anniversary. Oceania (oceaniacruises.com) is celebrating No. 20 with this month’s launch of its newest luxury flagship, Vista, along with shipboard credit of up to $800 per stateroom. Premium-category Celebrity (celebritycruises.com) and mainstream-class MSC  (msccruises.com) each turns 35 this year, but, surprisingly, neither company seems to be making a big splash. Looking beyond, Windstar (windstarcruises.com) turns the big 4-0 in 2024. The luxury cruise line is keeping mum so far on any “over the hill” — make that “over the wave” — party plans.

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741421 2023-05-03T12:29:50+00:00 2023-05-08T16:25:58+00:00
Here’s how you can see South America by sea https://www.morningjournal.com/2023/04/21/travel-heres-how-you-can-see-south-america-by-sea/ Fri, 21 Apr 2023 19:28:43 +0000 https://www.morningjournal.com/?p=736717&preview=true&preview_id=736717 Climbing the 222 steps to reach Rio de Janeiro’s iconic Christ the Redeemer may bring greater physical reward to the able-bodied who bypass the elevator or escalator. But no matter how one gets to the peak of Mount Corcovado, be they Christian or not, a spiritual reward awaits visitors at the pedestal of the religious and cultural symbol of Brazil, if not all of South America.

It isn’t just the towering depiction of Jesus that brings awe to those who reach the world-famous, 98-foot-high statue. The landmark’s width and representation also make it so affecting; Cristo Redentor, using the native Portuguese name, has open arms that span 92 feet. These outstretched appendages, whether interpreted as a welcoming gesture or the redemption of mankind at the crucifixion, add to the statue’s allure and, based on the nonstop crowd of people imitating the Beloved Son’s pose in group shots and selfies, its Instagramability.

Overlooking Rio de Janeiro, Christ the Redeemer is the religious and cultural symbol of Brazil, if not all of South America. (Photo by David Dickstein(
Overlooking Rio de Janeiro, Christ the Redeemer is the religious and cultural symbol of Brazil, if not all of South America. (Photo by David Dickstein)

When a virus isn’t plaguing tourism, Rio’s most popular and highest attraction draws around 2 million people each year. These days, more of them are coming via cruise ship, and there’s good reason for that; besides being a must-see attraction in a destination as famous for its beauty as it is for its culture, the cruise industry is going Brazil nuts. Ships are dropping anchor in Rio and other Brazilian ports at a record pace. Scheduled out from May through the end of next year are 450 cruise itineraries that include at least one call in this captivating country of Carnaval, capybara and Copacabana Beach.

Expanding the map, South American waters will see more than 30 ships from 20 cruise lines following over 670 itineraries during that 20-month-long period. Three of those routes depart from Los Angeles — all this December at the start of the five-month peak season when temps get toasty south of the equator. Out of San Pedro’s World Cruise Center, Princess and Celebrity have voyages of 18 and 16 nights, respectively, that include visits to Ecuador, Peru and Chile; the Princess sail, aboard the 2,670-guest Sapphire Princess, offers the option of staying on another 16 days to go around Cape Horn for stopovers in Argentina, Uruguay, the Antarctic peninsula and the Falkland Islands.

Lindblad-National Geographic's Islander II is an expedition cruise ship in the Galapagos Islands. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Lindblad-National Geographic’s Islander II is an expedition cruise ship in the Galapagos Islands. (Photo by David Dickstein)

California gets an occasional nod, but when it comes to hosting South America-bound sailaways from a U.S. port, Florida is called upon most. Four of the 28 domestically launched itineraries scheduled through 2024 are roundtrips from Miami on two upper-premium-class Oceania ships: Nautica and Sirena. Starting and ending from home soil could reduce stress and the cost of getting to and from the port as flights to Miami and Fort Lauderdale tend to be far cheaper and less taxing than the international alternative.

The majority of South American cruises are intracontinental, and that’s a plus for Americans of the Northern kind who wish to bypass Mexico and/or Central America in favor of spending more time way, way south of the border. The foreign ports where most of these journeys begin are Buenos Aires, Argentina; Lima, Peru; Valparaiso, Chile; Montevideo, Uruguay; and Sao Paulo and Rio, Brazil.

A land tour to mysterious Machu Picchu is a top cruise add-on. (Photo by David Dickstein)
A land tour to mysterious Machu Picchu is a top cruise add-on. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Let’s explore these chief departure ports that contribute to the fourth-largest continent being a top cruise destination.

Argentina’s capital is a stylish, sophisticated city graced with neoclassical architecture, wide boulevards, avant-garde museums, great restaurants and a fashionable populace. No wonder Buenos Aires is called “The Paris of South America.” Tango shows, tours of world-famous soccer stadiums and excursions to magnificent Iguazu Falls of one to four days are available from Buenos Aires through most cruise lines.

A Peruvian mother and child sell wares near the fertile Sacred Valley. (Photo by David Dickstein)
A Peruvian mother and child sell wares near the fertile Sacred Valley. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Lima is a tale of two cities. Within the Peruvian capital’s historic center are colonial charms including Baroque and neoclassical cathedrals, palaces, monasteries and remnants of ancient city walls. Yet, Lima is also a vibrant metropolis of skyscrapers with a tony coastline and chic restaurants to match. Lima, from trendsetting, sun-seeking Miraflores to the bohemian paradise of the Barranco district, has grown to be much more than the first stopover on a land-based excursion to must-see Machu Picchu.

What the port of Civitavecchia is to Rome, Italy’s capital, is what the ports of Valparaiso and San Antonio are to Chile’s capital of Santiago. What we mean by that is there’s a misleading tendency among cruise lines to list these ports as being the same as the sexier (read: more marketable) world capital when the ship actually docks well more than an hour’s drive away. A number of shore excursions include a literal taste of Chile’s famous wine industry as the valleys between the coast and capital are dotted with bucolic spots to savor swigs of signature Carménère and Cabernet.

Osorno, a Patagonian landmark, is one of the most active volcanoes of the southern Chilean Andes. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Osorno, a Patagonian landmark, is one of the most active volcanoes of the southern Chilean Andes. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Another destination with an impressive wine region is South America’s southernmost capital city, Montevideo, Uruguay’s political, economic and cultural center. Like many stops on a South American voyage, this one boasts several UNESCO World Heritage sites, a vibrant marketplace and culturally rich museums and cathedrals. Passengers may notice a slower pace here than in other ports on the cruise as there’s a laid-back, earthy aura to this metropolis of nearly 2 million people.

That’s a ghost town compared to Sao Paulo, South America’s largest city with a metro population of over 22 million. Cruise ships dock about 50 miles away in Port Santos, Latin America’s busiest, and while there’s plenty to see and do near the terminal (three-mile-long beach garden and swimmable shore, Pelé Museum, historic churches), Sao Paulo is where the action is. Not all cruise lines go there, favoring shore excursions that don’t require three to four hours of total drive time, but Celebrity (celebritycruises.com) offers a comprehensive, eight-hour tour that gives guests their fill of culture, history and Brazilian barbeque.

Industrial Port Santos and sprawling Sao Paulo are a lot of things, but beautiful isn’t one of them. OK, picturesque can be the drive from sea level to the 2,500-foot-high plateau upon which Sao Paulo sits in the Brazilian Highlands. Filling the void of a gorgeous landscape is the port that’s usually visited right before or after Santos. A mere 249 nautical miles to the northeast is Rio de Janeiro, home of the aforementioned Christ the Redeemer and other heavenly bodies of a different type. Rio’s world-renowned beaches are strewn with them, and do they ever love having fun in the sun wearing provocative swimwear, or less. Copacabana and Ipanema beaches offer the most eye candy with the ultimate sugar rush happening in February during Carnaval, Brazil’s biggest party of the year.

Day or night, Carnaval is Brazil's biggest party of the year. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Day or night, Carnaval is Brazil’s biggest party of the year. (Photo by David Dickstein)

A South American cruise doesn’t have to last only from embarkation to debarkation. With extra time and money, land packages enable guests to make the most of already being down there. Popular add-ons include Machu Picchu and its culture-rich gateway Cusco, the Galapagos Islands, the Amazon rainforest, Patagonia and Antarctica.

Pre- and post-cruise land packages can be both convenient and a money saver. For select voyages in 2024, Oceania (oceaniacruises.com) is throwing in a multi-day immersive land program at no additional cost, a savings of up to $5,000 per person. Next year’s specials, all on the 1,250-passenger Marina, include three additional nights in Rio, Buenos Aires, Santiago or Lima.

Pristine beauty graces French Guiana on South America's eastern coastline. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Pristine beauty graces French Guiana on South America’s eastern coastline. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Holland America’s “Legendary Voyages,” longer sails in commemoration of the cruise line’s 150th anniversary this year, include a 28-day “Amazon Explorer” roundtrip from Fort Lauderdale in February aboard the 1,432-passenger Zaandam. Holland America (hollandamerica.com) also has so-called “Signature Experiences,” exclusive pre- or post-cruise events designed to immerse guests in local culture. These are complimentary for passengers booking a suite, and available for purchase to those in other stateroom categories.

Princess (princess.com) is offering 10 departures from 14 to 34 days on the 2,670-guest Sapphire Princess in early 2024. Guests with an itch to see Iguazu Falls and Machu Picchu have the option of upgrading to a Princess-curated Cruisetour of five to six days.

Beached since 1957, the St. Christopher naval boat, in the foreground of a docked Star Princess, rests in the Beagle Channel off Ushuaia, Argentina. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Beached since 1957, the St. Christopher naval boat, in the foreground of a docked Star Princess, rests in the Beagle Channel off Ushuaia, Argentina. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Itineraries from Viking (vikingcruises.com) include four 18-day “South America & the Chilean Fjords” sails in January and February, and another four the following November and December. Four more are offered in winter 2025, each paying a visit to Port Stanley, home to more than a million penguins, and Ushuaia, the Argentine city at the “End of the World.”

MSC (msccruisesusa.com) has eight ships sailing more than 250 itineraries through next year in South America, none of which embark from the U.S. The Geneva-based cruise line does have six sails ending in New York or Miami next year after 80-plus days that include a South American swing.

A Galapagos sea lion pup is curious, friendly and fearless. (Photo by David Dickstein)
A Galapagos sea lion pup is curious, friendly and fearless. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Looking beyond next year, Silversea (silversea.com) is currently booking a 72-day “South American Grand Voyage” that circumnavigates the continent from January to April 2025. Aboard the cruise line’s future flagship, the 728-capacity Silver Ray that debuts next year, passengers making the full roundtrip from Fort Lauderdale will visit 38 ports in 17 countries. The exotic itinerary even includes a few days sailing down the Amazon River.

Also in 2025, Cunard (cunard.com) has a “South America Discovery” cruise that has the 2,061-passenger Queen Victoria sailing around the continent from Fort Lauderdale – this one over 52 nights from January to March. As with the longer Silversea sail, the adventure can be taken in smaller segments.

Meanwhile, Holland America’s Zaandam will sail in February 2025 on a 27-day, 12-port Amazon adventure roundtrip, yet again from Fort Lauderdale. The itinerary includes several days cruising the Amazon.

If a year or two is too long a wait for a grand voyage to South America, and only ultra-luxury cruising will do, Regent Seven Seas (rssc.com) has a 67-night roundtrip leaving on Dec. 4 from Miami. More good news: Balconies on the 750-passenger Splendor were going for under $45,000 per person, double occupancy, at press time, a 61% savings off the brochure rate. Of course, this means you’ll likely be away from family and friends during the holidays. We’ll let you decide if that’s bad news or good news.

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736717 2023-04-21T15:28:43+00:00 2023-04-21T15:39:34+00:00
Travel: These 11 cruise ports are worth more than a brief excursion https://www.morningjournal.com/2023/01/22/travel-these-11-cruise-ports-are-worth-more-than-a-brief-excursion/ https://www.morningjournal.com/2023/01/22/travel-these-11-cruise-ports-are-worth-more-than-a-brief-excursion/#respond Sun, 22 Jan 2023 20:33:04 +0000 https://www.morningjournal.com/?p=710013&preview=true&preview_id=710013 Nothing says your cruise vacation is over more than hearing that inevitable killjoy who yowls, “Back to reality!” as you’re walking off the ship for the last time.

But what if you could delay reality? That dream is doable if you have the time, money and desire to extend your vacation in or near the cruise port. You’re already there, so why not take one more shore excursion that lasts not just a few hours, but a few days?

That’s a rhetorical question for all wanderlusters with a healthy travel budget. Here’s another that isn’t rhetorical: Which port cities are worth suspending reality in after your stateroom key is deactivated? For some answers, let’s explore the four busiest ports in the U.S. that make up nearly three-quarters of all domestic-originating cruises. Then let’s explore foreign ports near and far that are deserved of a few days of post-cruise R&R or, even better, a dedicated vacation when that travel bug bites again.

Miami

Miami, the "Cruise Capital of the World," takes in more than . (Photo by Cliff Hawkins/Getty Images)
Miami, the “Cruise Capital of the World,” takes in more than . (Photo by Cliff Hawkins/Getty Images)

The “Cruise Capital of the World” is large enough to accommodate the more than 5 million cruisers expected to sail out of there this year, but small enough to be only a 20-minute rideshare drive between bustling PortMiami and hustling Downtown. Must-dos in the Magic City depend on one’s lifestyle more than most vacation destinations, so while South Beach might be too quirky and trendy for some, others might yawn over walking a bird-watching trail. Consensus favors Miami’s tropical beaches that generally offer whiter and finer sand than those in California, plus warmer waters pretty much year-round. Staying at the fabulous Fontainebleau, Faena or Four Seasons might be too dear after spending thousands on the cruise, so here’s a bit of money-saving Miami advice: Consider a property near the airport for a stress-reduced trip home. The sprawling Marriott Connection at Miami Airport (marriott.com) has a Marriott, Courtyard and Residence Inn a couple of miles from MIA and seven miles from PortMiami, along with 836 renovated and reasonably priced rooms, a range of restaurants and bars, three rental car locations and a free airport shuttle.

Orlando

Disney Skyliner transports guests between Disney's Hollywood Studios and Epcot to four resort hotels Disney's Art of Animation Resort, Disney's Caribbean Beach Resort, Disney's Pop Century Resort and the new Disney's Riviera Resort, scheduled to open in December 2019. (Photo by David Roark,Walt Disney World) 
Disney Skyliner transports guests between Disney’s Hollywood Studios and Epcot to four resort hotels – Disney’s Art of Animation Resort, Disney’s Caribbean Beach Resort, Disney’s Pop Century Resort and the new Disney’s Riviera Resort, scheduled to open in December 2019. (Photo by David Roark,Walt Disney World)

The home of Walt Disney World and Universal Studios Florida is located about 45 minutes from Port Canaveral on the so-called Space Coast. Beachfront resorts abound near the world’s second-busiest cruise port, but sacrilegious it would be for families and even adults (Disney or otherwise) not to make base at a Mickey Mouse operation for a cruise-land vacation. As Disney World properties go, it’s Pop Century Resort for value, Disney’s Grand Floridian Resort & Spa for luxury, Disney’s Contemporary Resort for convenience, and Disney’s Beach Club Resort for overall enjoyment (disneyworld.disney.go.com). True, you can also start your trip in Orlando, but after a few days in the theme park mecca, your long-awaited cruise might bring diminishing returns.

Fort Lauderdale

Port Everglades, the third-busiest cruise ship terminal in the world, has more than 33,000 hotel rooms nearby. (Photo by Joe Raedle/Getty Images)
Port Everglades, the third-busiest cruise ship terminal in the world, has more than 33,000 hotel rooms nearby. (Photo by Joe Raedle/Getty Images)

A mere 30 miles north of the busiest cruise port in the world is No. 3. Port Everglades, just minutes from Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport, is on Florida’s Gold Coast and about a half-hour drive to airboat tours and alligator wrestling shows at Everglades Holiday Park. Also nearby are 24 miles of beautiful beaches and 60 acres of flora and fauna at Flamingo Gardens. Top scuba diving and snorkeling are popular thanks to nature’s three-tiered coral reef system 100 yards offshore. The area has more than 33,000 hotel rooms, and 125 of the nicest are at the tasteful, family-friendly Atlantic Hotel and Spa (atlantichotelfl.com). Steps from the oceanfront property, besides a white sandy beach, is some of the city’s best shopping, dining and art.

Galveston Island

Houston's Post Oak Hotel makes for a swanky stay after debarking in Galveston. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Houston’s Post Oak Hotel makes for a swanky stay after debarking in Galveston. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Carnival still has a Texas-sized market share in this port on the Gulf of Mexico, but no man or cruise ship is an island. Others raising anchor in the nation’s fourth-busiest cruise port include Disney, Norwegian, Princess and Royal Caribbean. A fourth terminal is in development for MSC. Within walking distance of the cruise terminals is a historical district rich in unique attractions. There’s a beachfront Holiday Inn in town that might work for a pre- or post-cruise overnighter, but in keeping with the pampering you enjoyed on the cruise, and to avoid the hour’s drive back to George Bush or Houston Hobby airports, luxury lodging awaits at the Post Oak Hotel at Uptown Houston (thepostoak.com). The only Forbes Five-Star hotel in Texas and Houston’s only AAA Five-Diamond property is where most teams stay when in town to play MLB’s Astros, NFL’s Texans and NBA’s Rockets. Who can blame them with 250 ultra-modern guestrooms and suites, a 20,000-square-foot spa (also five-star rated), signature restaurants including one with more than 30,000 wine bottles worth over $5 million, and an adjoining upscale shopping mall? Oh, there’s also a two-story Rolls-Royce showroom and onsite Bentley and Bugatti dealership.

Cruises are awesome for seeing the world, but they can be a tease when visiting a port worthy of more time than the ship’s “all aboard” time. Here are some foreign cruise ports both near and far that are deserved of an extended stay if the itinerary allows — and if not, then returning to sans ship.

Barcelona

Basílica de la Sagrada Família in Barcelona, under construction since 1882, is still years from being finished. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Basílica de la Sagrada Família in Barcelona, under construction since 1882, is still years from being finished. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Spain’s second-largest metropolis is the whole package, offering everything you want from a cruise port without need of a shore excursion or private guide. The city of Gaudi, Picasso and Miro doesn’t take an expert to find spectacular sights, superb shopping, a breathtaking beach and fabulous tapas with cava — just tell the cab driver to plop you pretty much anywhere and you’re set. Staying at the Alexandra Barcelona Hotel (hilton.com) already puts you in the middle of the action being one corner from Barcelona’s cultural and fashion center, and two blocks from architect Antoni Gaudi’s Casa Batlló and Casa Milà. The boutique hotel is also within walking distance of Basílica de la Sagrada Família, which was less than a quarter complete when Gaudi, the basilica’s visionary, died in 1926. Before delays due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the city’s most iconic landmark was promised to be finished in 2026, the centenary of Gaudi’s death.

Bora Bora

Bungalows and hammocks grace the InterContinental Bora Bora Resort. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Bungalows and hammocks grace the InterContinental Bora Bora Resort. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Ten cruise lines navigate the turquoise waters of French Polynesia and nearly all their itineraries include the islands of Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora. That’s also the order for a “good, better, best” ranking, and while subjective, that order is backed up by the fact that Bora Bora is visited by 80% of tourists flying into Tahiti’s Faa’a International Airport, gateway to the Society Islands. For what many consider the ultimate Polynesian experience, several couples on a Paul Gauguin cruise abandoned their already-paid-for stateroom for a pricey night’s stay in an overwater bungalow. Each returned to the ship aglow, saying that experience was incredible, but way too short. The island is dotted with luxury resorts with these unique units with direct access to the aquamarine waters of a lagoon and the privilege of enjoying breakfast delivered by outrigger canoe. Two of the best mid-range-priced properties are the InterContinental Bora Bora Resort and Thalasso Spa, and its more modest sister, the InterContinental Le Moana Bora Bora (ihg.com/intercontinental).

Cabo San Lucas

12 Tribes at Cabo's Casa Dorada is one of the best hotel restaurants in Mexico. (Photo by David Dickstein)
12 Tribes at Cabo’s Casa Dorada is one of the best hotel restaurants in Mexico. (Photo by David Dickstein)

The most-visited port on the Mexican Riviera is home to Mother Nature’s El Arco, a party atmosphere, a decent food scene and oceanfront resorts that give guests the flexibility of going all-inclusive or a la carte. Los Cabos’ Casa Dorada and Hacienda del Mar are two top properties of differing vibes. Located next to some of the craziest cantinas on swimmable Medano Beach, 197-room Casa Dorada (casadorada.com) mixes cool with classy. Saltwater Spa is first-rate with treatments about 20% less than what’s charged on cruise ships, and 12 Tribes is one of the best hotel restaurants in Mexico. Chef David Sanz’s tropical ceviche, hibachi salmon, shrimp and wagyu ribeye, and raspberry cheesecake are superb. Fifteen minutes up the coast, away from the spring breaky atmosphere for which Cabo gets its party reputation, is another winning property. The 542-unit Hacienda Del Mar (haciendadelmar.com.mx) is on a less-swimmable section of coastline, but that’s a plus for those desiring serenity when sunbathing. The resort also has a terrific waterpark for children. Open-air Las Sirenas, one of the resort’s more casual eateries, serves up tasty mahi mahi tacos and pretty potent potables under a palapa.

Mykonos

Kalesma is a new five-star resort in the popular cruise port of Mykonos, Greece. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Kalesma is a new five-star resort in the popular cruise port of Mykonos, Greece. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Set on a hilltop above Ornos Bay, two miles from where tourists wander the narrow streets of Old Town filled with quaint whitewashed shops and cafes, is a new boutique hotel that captures the magical aura of this Grecian paradise — best experienced when the cruise ships are gone. Secluded and stylish, yet unpretentious, Kalesma (kalesmamykonos.com) is so inviting that its name actually translates to “inviting.” Décor and design, staff, gourmet eats at Pere Ubu, top-notch amenities and, oh, those views of the Aegean Sea — like the rest of Mykonos, simply dazzling.

Nassau

Atlantis Paradise Island is a jewel in the busy cruise port of Nassau. (Courtesy of Carnival Cruise Line)
Atlantis Paradise Island is a jewel in the busy cruise port of Nassau. (Courtesy of Carnival Cruise Line)

The Bahamian capital prides itself as having the world’s fifth-busiest cruise port and Atlantis Paradise Island, a hotel-casino-theme park that requires more than a ship-brokered shore excursion to do this year-round playground justice. If you’re into water parks, aquariums, high-end shopping, fine dining and gambling, Atlantis is a one-stop oasis. The property is built around Aquaventure, a 154-acre water park for all ages and levels of bravery. The steeliest nerves are needed for Leap of Faith, a 60-foot almost-vertical drop from the top of the resort’s iconic Mayan temple. Tamer times are spent at an aquarium that’s home to more than 50,000 fish and 250 species of marine life. Packages run the gamut, but paradise doesn’t come cheap; a couple can expect to spend at least $525 a day, while a family of four might shell out around $900 on the low end.

Puerto Vallarta

Adults-only Casa Velas features a large, inviting pool and swim-up bar. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Adults-only Casa Velas features a large, inviting pool and swim-up bar. (Photo by David Dickstein)

As with candy preferences, sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don’t. If in the mood to be the former, the many clubs along the Malecon will do nicely. When looking for luxurious relaxation away from the mainstream, there’s Casa Velas, an adults-only boutique hotel that’s near the marina, but not on the water. No problema as guests get reciprocity at nearby Velas Vallarta, an all-inclusive oceanfront family resort, as well as entrance to Tau Beach Club just a short free shuttle away. The resort’s signature restaurant, Emiliano, has excellent dinner selections and an even better cocktail menu. The Blue Peacock made with Malibu rum, coconut cream, blue curaçao and pineapple juice rivals the Coco-Banana with vodka, orange juice, coconut cream and a frozen banana for to-die-for honors.

Rome

When in Rome … visit the Colosseum and stay at a well-located hotel. (Photo by David Dickstein)
When in Rome … visit the Colosseum and stay at a well-located hotel. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Allotted 8 to 10 hours in Rome is like being told you can only watch the pilot episode of “Breaking Bad.” That doesn’t cut it with these two gems. But a half day is what most cruise passengers get to explore the ancient Italian capital and Vatican City. Bucket list landmarks include the Colosseum, Pantheon, Forum, St. Peter’s Basilica and Apostolic Palace, site of the Sistine Chapel. Another must-see is the Trevi Fountain and within steps of this 18th century beauty is a perfectly located and reasonably priced boutique hotel called, appropriately, Hotel Trevi (hoteltrevirome.com).

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https://www.morningjournal.com/2023/01/22/travel-these-11-cruise-ports-are-worth-more-than-a-brief-excursion/feed/ 0 710013 2023-01-22T15:33:04+00:00 2023-01-22T15:33:25+00:00
Travel: Cruise the Ohio River on a paddle wheeler https://www.morningjournal.com/2022/10/04/travel-no-passport-required-to-cruise-the-ohio-river-on-a-paddle-wheeler/ https://www.morningjournal.com/2022/10/04/travel-no-passport-required-to-cruise-the-ohio-river-on-a-paddle-wheeler/#respond Tue, 04 Oct 2022 19:00:10 +0000 https://www.morningjournal.com?p=678920&preview_id=678920 For a city without stoplights, supermarkets or a Starbucks, little Augusta, Kentucky, on the bucolic southern bank of the Ohio River, is a happening place.

Not only is a former Miss America a native daughter, the one-time seat of Bracken County counts among its 1,200 citizens the parents of George Clooney. In fact, Nick and Nina, both in their 80s, still live less than two blocks from where their two-time Oscar-winning son went to high school. Dad, a three-time Emmy nominee, is a former anchorman at KNBC in Los Angeles. Pouring even more country gravy on Augusta’s claims to fame, the longtime home of Nick’s sister and George’s aunt, Rosemary Clooney, is now a museum dedicated to the late, legendary entertainer.

Joined by employee Pam Schlereth, Nina Clooney (left), mother of George Clooney, welcomes passengers to her gift shop in Augusta, Kentucky. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Joined by employee Pam Schlereth, Nina Clooney (left), mother of George Clooney, welcomes passengers to her gift shop in Augusta, Kentucky. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Even with all this star power, Augusta maintains a charming Anytown U.S.A. look and feel. So humble is this hamlet in the Heartland, comparing it to Mayberry from the old “Andy Griffith Show” or Disneyland’s Main Street, U.S.A. isn’t a stretch. And if Augusta sounds like the kind of place that welcomes strangers with banners and bands, you’d be spot on with that, too.

We know this because 152 passengers and a crew of 95 were given a grand reception when the American Countess paddle wheeler docked at O’Neil Landing on a recent Saturday morning. Earlier in the cruise the majestic river boat had visited the ports of Pittsburgh, Belpre (Ohio) and Huntington (West Virginia), but their welcomes were hardly as warm. Same with Madison (Ind.) and Louisville (Ky.) days later.

Capt. Mike Blitgen maneuvers the American Countess in Huntington, W.Va. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Capt. Mike Blitgen maneuvers the American Countess in Huntington, W.Va. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Only five times will a large riverboat pay a visit to Augusta this year, so the town pulled out all the stops for the rare event. Shops opened early, locals organized a crafts fair and singers performed under a pop-up canopy at the corner of very Mayberry-sounding Main Street and Riverside Drive. Even the mayor woke up before dawn to help direct traffic and say a few words to a travel writer hailing from his old stomping ground of California.

“I ran an import/export business in Anaheim from 1969 to 2004, and now I live in a town people say is the most beautiful they’ve ever seen,” said the Honorable Michael Taylor as he lifted a plastic cone so that a pickup truck could make a left turn. “I wouldn’t trade this for all the world.”

The Grand Lobby is the hub for socializing on the American Countess riverboat. (Photo by David Dickstein)
The Grand Lobby is the hub for socializing on the American Countess riverboat. (Photo by David Dickstein)

American Queen Voyages is the only major cruise line that makes a stop in Augusta, and the competition is the lesser for it. The town is also the poorer for it; Augusta’s tourism director, Janet Hunt, estimates that each riverboat passenger pumps an average of $100 into the local economy. Mayor Taylor said that’s significant for a town as small and remote as Augusta.

With seven vessels, eight come 2023, AQV’s fleet is roughly half the size of its foremost river rival, American Cruise Lines. The collection is comprised of four paddle wheel riverboats, two boutique coastal crafts and one expedition ship with a second debuting next year in Alaska. A big player in small-ship North America cruising, AQV sails the Mississippi, Illinois, Tennessee, Cumberland, Columbia and Snake rivers in addition to the Ohio. Lake and ocean destinations include the Great Lakes, New England, the southeastern U.S., Canada, Costa Rica and Mexico. Alaska and British Columbia are the backdrops of AQV’s expedition cruises.

Viewed from the top deck of the American Countess, a rainbow straddles Kentucky and Indiana over the Ohio River. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Viewed from the top deck of the American Countess, a rainbow straddles Kentucky and Indiana over the Ohio River. (Photo by David Dickstein)

All of the above have the makings of a memorable adventure, but there’s a reason AQV’s logo is a red paddlewheel and that until a year ago, the cruise line went by the name of American Queen Steamboat Company. Contemporarily designed paddle wheelers make up AQV’s core product. The flagship is the six-deck, 417-passenger American Queen, supposedly the largest steamboat ever built at 420 feet in length. The fleet’s newest riverboat is the four-deck American Countess, which fits up to 245 guests in 123 staterooms. The vessel is 361 feet long, but that wasn’t the original measurement. Originally constructed as a casino boat for Harrah’s, the then-named Kanesville Queen became obsolete in 2007 when Iowa allowed gaming on land. The 11-year-old boat was sold for scrap, but found new life by her current owners who added a 60-foot midsection and a completely new interior. After many delays due to the pandemic, the American Countess was finally launched in March 2021.

Her transformation from floating casino to floating hotel is impressive, and even though the vessel is sans slot machines and gaming tables due to interstate laws, there’s plenty of other venues. Besides the purser and excursions desk, the main deck has a large and lavish dining room, theater, fitness center, gift shop, and lounge with 24-hour coffee, tea and ice cream. Deck 2 has a library, card room and buffet-style restaurant. A massage room also is on the so-called Cabin Deck, but will remain dormant until AQV signs with a new health and wellness operator. Deck 3 has a chart room with delightfully nerdy navigational materials. The deck also has an outdoor walking track that equates to a mile for every 7 1/2 laps. The Sun Deck on 4 is where the pilot house is, and there’s a sign-up sheet at the front desk for tours of the captain’s office.

The Grand Dining Room is the elegant option between two restaurants on the American Countess. (Photo by David Dickstein)
The Grand Dining Room is the elegant option between two restaurants on the American Countess. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Staterooms are on the second and third decks, and generally start at under $3,000 per person, double occupancy, for a nine-night cruise that begins with a hotel stay in the city of embarkation. Most cabins on the American Countess offer a veranda, and if privacy is important to you be sure to book one on Deck 2. This non-exhibitionist was startled by a power walker who innocently peered into my Deck 3 unit as I was changing for an early dinner on my first day aboard. It was a quick lesson on what an “outside stateroom with open veranda” truly means. In one way it was a delightful surprise as I discovered how spry these mostly septuagenarian passengers can be on a river cruise, and with a sliding door that opens to the walking track, exercise and socialization opportunities abound.

AQV river cruises are noted as all-inclusive, but we’ll add an asterisk: Airfare, airport transfers and gratuities are extra. What’s included, however, is generous. Unlimited alcoholic beverages, guided hop-on/hop-off bus tours, 24-hour room service and internet are part of the fare along with the aforementioned hotel night and the shuttle from there to the vessel. Also included are well-maintained bicycles at each stopover and daily enrichment from people well-versed in river lore. Nightly entertainment was rough on the cruise from Pittsburgh to Louisville; only one of the three featured singers had the right stuff, and the four-piece band played with a “I hate my life” blasé attitude.

On the plus side, optional “premium experiences” are well organized and surprisingly fairly priced. A favorite on this itinerary is a visit to the Ark Encounter in Williamstown, Kentucky. From Cincinnati, or nearby Madison, Indiana, when the NFL Bengals have a home game, $119 gets a comfortable seat on a luxury motor coach for the hour or so ride each way, a buffet lunch at the destination and a ticket to see the largest timber frame structure in the world.

A visit to the Ark Encounter in Kentucky is among the premium shore excursions offered by AQV. (Photo by David Dickstein)
A visit to the Ark Encounter in Kentucky is among the premium shore excursions offered by AQ. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Built to biblical proportions, the main attraction is a life-sized reconstruction of Noah’s ark, thought to be 510 feet long. The Christian-themed attraction is heavy on evangelizing, but there’s plenty for non-believers, too. The price includes a petting zoo and a walk through a habitat populated with kangaroos and wallabies. Camel rides are extra and humanely run. Food is excellent with one treat that truly puts the “ark” in “remarkable.” Although there’s no mention of Uncle Leroy’s handcrafted fudge in the bible, the sweet stuff sold inside Noah’s scriptural ship is a religious experience all by itself.

Back on the boat built for humans, the American Countess serves up decent chow as well. The craft beer fried chicken, buttermilk frog legs and tempura chicken livers are tasty, and for those more respectful of Noah’s efforts, the latkes, lentil soup and stuffed chili are divine vegetarian options.

Hop-on/hop-off buses are provided at each stopover of an AQV river cruise. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Hop-on/hop-off buses are provided at each stopover of an AQV river cruise. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Getting one’s fill on American history is also satisfying whatever the waterway. River cruises within the U.S. are a living classroom, covering the Civil War, Mark Twain, jazz, Lewis and Clark, industry, architecture — you name it. And if a particular subject doesn’t excite, there’s often something else just around the river bend. Back where we started, charming Augusta, Kentucky, is a history hotbed. Built on an ancient Indian burial mound, the city was populated with a large number of antislavery sympathizers. Two homes that served as Underground Railroad safehouses are pointed out on the free bus tour and can be explored further by foot or bike. Other points of historical interest worth visiting are the Baker-Bird Winery, the oldest commercial estate winery in the nation, and the 1811 Jail, the oldest lockup in the state still on its original foundation.

The most-visited museum in Augusta celebrates the life of Rosemary Clooney. Her converted house holds the largest collection of “White Christmas” memorabilia, and for Heather French Henry, aka Miss America 2000, being the museum’s curator is a way to give back to someone who was very special in her life.

“Rosemary was a great mentor and friend who helped me transition into my public role as Miss America,” Henry said while keeping an eye on the door to welcome guests coming off the American Countess. “The second call I received after winning the crown was from Rosie, and one piece of advice she shared was to never forget where you came from. This museum allows us to pull back the curtain on what Rosemary Clooney meant and still means to Augusta, America and the world.”

A beautiful sunset on the Ohio River enhances the good life aboard the American Countess. (Photo by David Dickstein)
A beautiful sunset on the Ohio River enhances the good life aboard the American Countess. (Photo by David Dickstein)

With the line to take a selfie with Kentucky’s only Miss America several people deep, the impromptu interview inside the museum was wrapped up. A few hours later the American Countess was heading west to yet another corner of the country that many would never visit if not for river cruising.

American Queen Voyages can be reached at www.aqvoyages.com or 866-522-1166.

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